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Post by sidewaysdriver6 on Dec 9, 2006 13:15:09 GMT 7
Hmmm... i saw b4 on the net that some put the reciever standing in (instead of lying flat) between the esc and reciever.. u might want to try that yeah, i thought about that, but the space there i find is too cramped, plus a problem putting in/plugging out the cables from the receiver that way, personal preference i guess.
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Nov
New Drifter
Posts: 57
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Post by Nov on Dec 10, 2006 10:24:47 GMT 7
Well, you're not gonna take out the cables often rite? Hehe... Its gonna stick onto your car for a long long time...
I put my receiver ontop of the servo like yours, but I use velcro to stick it on so that I can take it out to put into my RS4...Even when I play grip, it doesn't come out...
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Post by sidewaysdriver6 on Dec 10, 2006 13:05:01 GMT 7
Well, you're not gonna take out the cables often rite? Hehe... Its gonna stick onto your car for a long long time... I put my receiver ontop of the servo like yours, but I use velcro to stick it on so that I can take it out to put into my RS4...Even when I play grip, it doesn't come out... true, true ... i like the velcro idea!
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Nov
New Drifter
Posts: 57
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Post by Nov on Dec 10, 2006 17:10:28 GMT 7
If you're gonna use velcro, a way to make it stick better is to:
1. Put the velcros on the 2 surfaces 2. Press firmly on the 2 items that are going to be 'stuck' with each other... 3. Then move the piece (Your Rx) clockwise and anti-clockwise...So that the more fibers of the velcro will get hooked on to the other surface...
If you never do step 3, your Rx will not be as secured...
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Post by sidewaysdriver6 on Dec 10, 2006 21:22:40 GMT 7
my setup for drifting with the cyclone S, after some fine-tuning :
Ground Types Ground Type 1 : Unsheltered MSCP Concrete Ground (e.g. Serangoon MSCP Top Level, Simei MSCP Top Level etc.) Ground Type 2 : Sheltered MSCP Concrete Ground & Void Deck (e.g. Bukit Batok MSCP, Serangoon & Simei MSCP 2nd Level etc.)
Electronics Transmitter : Futaba 2PL Receiver : Futaba R152JE Servo : Futaba S3003 ESC : Futaba MC330CR Steering EPA - Left : 83%3 Steering EPA - Right : 82%3 Throttle EPA : 100% Reverse EPA : 80% Steering Dual Rate : 85%*
Car (Cyclone S) Front Toe-out : Approx. 1.5 degrees (Pivot Block : 1.5 degrees) (Hop-Up) Camber : 0 degrees Castor : Stock Ride Height : 7mm* (with battery on car) Droop : 2mm* Ackerman : Stock Shocks : Stock Shock Mount Position - Top : 4th hole counting from centre of chassis Shock Mount Position - Bottom : 1st hole counting from centre of chassis Shock Springs : Yellow (Hop-Up) Shock - Adjustable Gap : 7.5mm* Shock - Oil Weight : 0 (No Oil) (Just put a little shock oil around the O-ring where the metal shaft passes through in the shock) Belt Tension : Groove on bearing holder faces the front Solid Axle2 (1 Piece Type, P/N 61334) (Hop-Up; note that this is not the Front Solid Axle Set P/N 61045) Universal Drive Shaft Set (Hop-Up) - although these alum. dogbones may break upon impact (i've broken 2), i find the universal drive shafts to offer better, smoother steering control; recommend to keep some of these dogbones as spare6
Rear Toe-out : 0 degrees (Pivot Block : Used the Stock Pivot Block of 0 degrees. This stock pivot block is the one used in front in the stock configuration) Camber : 0 degrees Castor : Stock Ride Height : 6mm (with battery on car) Droop : 2mm Shocks : Stock Shock Mount Position - Top : 2nd hole counting from centre of chassis Shock Mount Position - Bottom : 2nd hole counting from centre of chassis Shock Springs : Blue Shock - Adjustable Gap : 5mm for Ground Type 1; 4mm for Ground Type 2 Shock - Oil Weight : 0 (No Oil) (Just put a little shock oil around the O-ring where the metal shaft passes through in the shock) Belt Tension : Groove on bearing holder faces the back (Stock placement of bearing holder (i.e. groove on bearing holder facing the front) makes the belt tension a little too hard for the rear belt; advise to change this to have the groove facing the back) Solid Axle (1 Piece Type, P/N 61334) (Hop-Up)
Wheels : PVC, with SGDrifters brand rims
Motor : Tamiya Super Stock TZ7
Gearing : 96T Spur (Stock) and 39T Pinion7 : Gear Ratio is (96/39)x2.4375 = 6.00:1 I think this gear ratio works well for the TZ, after playing around with 96T, 97T and 99T spurs and 37T, 38T and 39T pinions. Good speed and easier to get and maintain a more extreme angle earlier in a long drift.
(Used to be : 96T Spur (Stock) and 41T Pinion This is to get a gear ratio of (96/41)x2.4375 = 5.70:1, which is closest to the 5.72:1 gear ratio when using the tt-01 with 25 pinion/55 spur. i liked the motor and gearing from my tt-01d days and wanted to replicate that on the cyclone s)
NB : if you're using the tamiya sport-tuned motor with the hop-up motor mount, the motor guard needs to be dremelled/trimmed a little around the area where the red cable on the sport-tuned motor is attached to the motor.
Suggested Hop-ups* : 1) Pivot Block of 1.0 or 1.5 or 2.0 degrees, with Pivot Block FR, to give toe-out in the Front; suggest to move the stock front Pivot Block (of 0 degrees) to the Rear instead. To provide better/easier control when drifting around turns. 2) Solid Rear Axle - i find this helps in making the long drifts easier to pull off, as it reduces the tendency for the car to turn more than desired in the direction of the drift, when compared to having a ball diff in the rear. 3) Yellow Shock Springs for the Front; Blue Shock Springs for the Back - see remarks
(hpi's pro4 spring tensions, from soft to hard : blue, silver, pink, gold, white, yellow, red. these springs can be used on the cyclone/cyclone S.)
Remarks : Ground Type 2 has a smoother surface than Ground Type 1, so i reduce the adjustable gap on the rear shocks by 1mm to give the rear more grip when running on Ground Type 2. that is the only change required with this setup. the cyclone S is a very responsive car with a lot of steering, so the approach i used to set it for drifting is to "dumb" down the front steering response by using a stiffer set up in front (choice of shock mounting position, spring tension etc.) and give the rear more grip by opting for a softer rear setup.
i hope this gives some base reference point for those looking to set up their cyclone/cyclone S for drifting.
* - edited Sun 17 Dec 2006 1 - edited Tue 19 Dec 2006 edited Sun 24 Dec 2006 2 - edited Thu 28 Dec 2006 3 - edited Mon 01 Jan 2007 4 - edited Wed 10 Jan 2007 5 - edited Wed 10 Jan 2007 6 - edited Sun 14 Jan 2007 7 - edited Sun 28 Jan 2007
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Post by dan on Dec 11, 2006 0:25:56 GMT 7
woah.. super detailed man...
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Post by Rza on Dec 11, 2006 0:46:57 GMT 7
err...what was that again?? haha..its detailed alright..
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Post by NoSurprisesâ„¢ on Dec 11, 2006 8:13:01 GMT 7
Tat's wat i call drift chassis setup called... Very WELL DETAILED... i like tat, but sad that i dun own a cyclone...
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Post by dan on Dec 11, 2006 8:17:07 GMT 7
you can own one wat... go buy la.. order from winnie!! haha...
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Post by *team trixieâ„¢ | X on Dec 11, 2006 11:17:03 GMT 7
my god, wong, what did u do to ur cyclone!
are u coming batok this saturday? if so, i gotta try ur cyclone, man. mine is just all out of box settings and it drifts like a dream le. tantalising just thinking how much better it can be with the amt of hop ups u put in.
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Post by sidewaysdriver6 on Dec 11, 2006 12:09:39 GMT 7
my god, wong, what did u do to ur cyclone! are u coming batok this saturday? if so, i gotta try ur cyclone, man. mine is just all out of box settings and it drifts like a dream le. tantalising just thinking how much better it can be with the amt of hop ups u put in. yupz, should be there this sat! will still need to fine-tune for the bb mscp, i always have setup issues with this location. my last sat's setup for bb (not posted here) worked quite ok but certainly didn't feel anywhere near as 'right' as what i did for serangoon and simei. i'm gonna try the simei setup for the bb mscp this sat. the shock settings (mount positions and springs etc.), amongst other things, can make so much of a difference. i'd like to try your cyclone too ;D. i'm not as pro as you so i need to buy hop-ups and fine-tune to attempt to drift better ;D lol. i believe in fine-tuning to make the car easier to drift. much of the settings depend on personal preference and drifting style too - i tried mel's sprint2 on sat and had a really hard time driving it , but mel was pulling off extreme drifts on it like snapping his fingers ;D. see you on sat! i'll likely spin out with your car lolz.
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Post by *team trixieâ„¢ | X on Dec 15, 2006 19:10:50 GMT 7
lol.
and to think we are constantly dreaming up ways to make our steering even more responsive. well, u can try my car at batok later i suppose. ;D
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Post by *team trixieâ„¢ | X on Dec 16, 2006 11:51:59 GMT 7
hoho. i managed to take wongs cyclone s for a spin, his setup is really much better than my anyhow whack setup, tend to spin out a teeeeeny bit on bb surface but really a d**n good setup already.
it shld be a monster at melwood. hope wong swings by today.
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Post by housemartiniz on Dec 16, 2006 15:57:18 GMT 7
Morgan will be waiting for Scarlett's arrival *grins
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Post by sidewaysdriver6 on Dec 17, 2006 10:03:42 GMT 7
sorry X and housemartiniz, couldn't make it down to melwood yesterday, had to spend some time with my wife ;D. still need to fine-tune the car a bit more to correct that slight oversteering prob for the bb mscp . see you chaps next sat night.
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Post by housemartiniz on Dec 17, 2006 13:36:14 GMT 7
No worries man...see you next sat? sorry X and housemartiniz, couldn't make it down to melwood yesterday, had to spend some time with my wife ;D. still need to fine-tune the car a bit more to correct that slight oversteering prob for the bb mscp . see you chaps next sat night.
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Post by sidewaysdriver6 on Dec 17, 2006 19:12:10 GMT 7
No worries man...see you next sat? sorry X and housemartiniz, couldn't make it down to melwood yesterday, had to spend some time with my wife ;D. still need to fine-tune the car a bit more to correct that slight oversteering prob for the bb mscp . see you chaps next sat night. yup! i should be there.
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Post by sidewaysdriver6 on Dec 19, 2006 23:52:44 GMT 7
made some changes to the transmitter settings that allowed me to correct the slight oversteering problem pretty well. the tx needs to be fine-tuned too!
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ali_g
Regular Drifter
Posts: 188
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Post by ali_g on Dec 20, 2006 16:15:09 GMT 7
guys i gt cyclone s hopups for sale. pm me if interested
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Post by sidewaysdriver6 on Dec 24, 2006 0:31:37 GMT 7
think i finally nailed down all the settings! more time to spend concentrating on the drifting skills and line now.
for those doing setup on the cyclone s, i suggest to tune the car first before tuning the transmitter. if any settings on the tx need to go below 80% then it's over-compensating for a car that needs to be tuned.
note also that i have the steering epa for the right side 1% lower than for the left. the car battery is placed on the right side of the car and this causes an imbalance on that side and as a result the car turns faster while drifting right. i find reducing the steering epa for the right side helps compensate for the imbalance. suggest a 1-2% drop but not more than that.
for the tx tuning, i do donuts around a duffel bag (or tyre) and dial it in from there.
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Post by dan on Dec 24, 2006 12:36:52 GMT 7
Wong... u can be our east side drifter's tuning technician alr...
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Post by sidewaysdriver6 on Dec 24, 2006 21:15:02 GMT 7
Wong... u can be our east side drifter's tuning technician alr... ahaha, not good enough la ;D. but if i can help i will help.
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Post by sidewaysdriver6 on Dec 28, 2006 2:09:34 GMT 7
an update : i have found that if you don't rebuild your ball diff after many runs it will effectively become a solid axle due to the dust/dirt that gathers around the balls ;D lolz.
it seems i've been drifting with a pseudo solid axle in the front for quite a while ;D, so i have decided to change it to the real solid axle in the front. will try it out this sat. i would expect the effect/feel to be the same as what i've gotten used to.
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Post by sidewaysdriver6 on Dec 28, 2006 8:31:56 GMT 7
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Yu
Regular Drifter
Team Drift Force [Junyu]
Posts: 150
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Post by Yu on Dec 28, 2006 23:53:58 GMT 7
wat is a solid rear axle? does it replace ur ball diff ? and wat material is it made of? lastly how much isit?
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Post by sidewaysdriver6 on Dec 29, 2006 0:38:13 GMT 7
wat is a solid rear axle? does it replace ur ball diff ? and wat material is it made of? lastly how much isit? here's a pic of a solid axle (P/N 61334) for the cyclone/cyclone s : you can use it for the front or rear (or even both like i do). it replaces the ball diff. the solid axle is made of metal and plastic (as in the pic). costs about $30 from taising. the P/N 61334 solid axle is not the same as the Front Solid Axle Set P/N 61045. the P/N 61334 solid axle is an updated version of P/N 61045, according to the hb website. see www.hbeurope.com/piw.php?partNo=61334&lang=en
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Yu
Regular Drifter
Team Drift Force [Junyu]
Posts: 150
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Post by Yu on Dec 29, 2006 8:39:10 GMT 7
As you said, changing the ball diff to a solid axle helps you execute long drifts easier.. could you tell me the other differences between these two.? coz i may consider changing to a solid axle if its good.. thankyou..
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Post by sidewaysdriver6 on Dec 29, 2006 10:52:51 GMT 7
well, when traveling in a straight line, a ball diff and a solid axle will function in the same way.
but when turning, say turning left for example, a ball diff will make the wheel on the left side turn at a slower rate than the wheel on the right side. this makes cornering easier and more responsive because the curve of the turn can be more pronounced.
with a solid axle, when turning left for example, both wheels will still spin at the same rate. this automatically makes the curve of the turn greater than what you can achieve with a ball diff.
you know how for the tt-01 ppl normally pack the rear gear diff with sticky grease or other things, to semi-lock or lock the differential action? this basically reduces the difference in speed between the 2 wheels when you're turning. when there's less difference in speed between the 2 wheels, there's less tendency for the car to turn more than you want in the direction of the turn. this in turn makes pulling long drifts easier, at least for me.
as there's no sealed gear diff available for the cyclone/cyclone s, to achieve the same end-result i just use a solid axle on the rear. theoretically you could achieve the same effect if you tighten you ball diff really tight. but the ball diff has the balls semi-exposed and you need to rebuild the ball diff quite often to ensure proper working condition. with the solid axle you just put it in and can pretty much forget about the maintenance.
some players put a solid axle in front and a ball diff behind, some others (like me) set it up with 2 solid axles. just note that the turning curve when using a solid axle in front is going to be "wider" than if you use a ball diff.
at about $30 i think it's a really good investment. you can try it out on either the front or the rear and see which one you like better (or maybe even both like me). for me i love it because it saves me the hassle of maintaining the ball diff, and it makes pulling off drifts easier.
for touring i believe the pros rebuild the ball diff after every run or so. for drifting at the mscp you probably need to rebuild the ball diff after every 3-4 runs(?) due to the dirt and dust. otherwise you'll end up with an essentially solid axle like mine lol.
there's a 10% discount at taising that's going to last until this sat!
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Yu
Regular Drifter
Team Drift Force [Junyu]
Posts: 150
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Post by Yu on Dec 29, 2006 13:46:30 GMT 7
thanks for the detailed explanation.. really appreciate it... for now i'll probably get jus one solid axle and try it out haha..
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Yu
Regular Drifter
Team Drift Force [Junyu]
Posts: 150
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Post by Yu on Dec 30, 2006 0:15:58 GMT 7
erm... could i try running ur cyclone b4 i make a desicion...?
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